Men’s Black Tie Guide | What to Wear | Richard Paul Menswear

Men’s Black Tie Guide | What to Wear | Richard Paul Menswear

Men’s Black Tie Guide: What to Wear & How to Get It Right

Few dress codes are as timeless as Black Tie. Whether you are attending a formal dinner, awards evening, charity ball or wedding, getting the details right will ensure you look smart, elegant and appropriate for the occasion.

While the words “Black Tie” may sound straightforward, there are a few important differences between a traditional dinner suit and an everyday suit.

In this guide, we take you through the essential elements of men’s Black Tie, from choosing the right dinner jacket and trousers to shirts, bow ties, shoes and accessories.

What Does Black Tie Mean?

Black Tie is a formal evening dress code traditionally centred around the dinner suit, also commonly known as a tuxedo.

A classic Black Tie outfit consists of:

The overall appearance should be elegant and coordinated. Black Tie isn't about adding lots of colour or detail; often, the simpler the outfit, the better it looks.

Choosing a Dinner Jacket

The dinner jacket is the centrepiece of a Black Tie outfit.

Traditionally made in black or midnight blue, a dinner jacket differs from a normal suit jacket through details such as satin or grosgrain lapels and covered or contrasting buttons.

The lapels will usually be either peak lapels or a shawl collar.

Peak lapels create a sharp, traditional appearance, while the rounded shape of a shawl collar offers an equally formal but slightly softer look.

Whichever style you choose, fit is important. The jacket should sit cleanly across the shoulders and chest without pulling when fastened, and the sleeves should allow a small amount of shirt cuff to show.

What Trousers Should You Wear for Black Tie?

Black Tie trousers should match your dinner jacket and are traditionally finished with a satin or grosgrain stripe running down the outside of each leg.

Unlike ordinary suit trousers, traditional dinner trousers are designed to create a clean, uninterrupted line.

For this reason, a belt is generally avoided. Depending on the trousers, side adjusters or braces can be used instead.

The trousers should sit comfortably at the waist and fall neatly over your shoes without excessive fabric gathering around the ankle.

The Black Tie Shirt

A crisp white shirt provides the contrast that gives Black Tie its instantly recognisable appearance.

A traditional dress shirt may feature a pleated or textured front, although a well-fitted plain-fronted formal shirt can also create a very smart appearance.

Double cuffs worn with cufflinks are an excellent choice for a formal event.

The collar should sit neatly around the neck and work comfortably with your bow tie. A classic turndown collar is a versatile and elegant option.

Bow Tie or Necktie?

For traditional Black Tie, the answer is simple: a black bow tie.

The bow tie should complement the facing of the dinner jacket and complete the formal appearance of the outfit.

A self-tie bow tie is the traditional choice and has a character of its own, particularly once tied. However, a good-quality pre-tied bow tie can be a practical alternative if you are less confident tying one yourself.

A standard necktie may occasionally appear at less formal events, but if the invitation specifically states Black Tie, a black bow tie is the safest and most traditional choice.

Waistcoat or Cummerbund?

A waistcoat or cummerbund can be worn to cover the waistband of the trousers and create a more complete traditional Black Tie outfit.

If choosing a waistcoat, it should generally be a low-cut evening style designed to sit beneath the dinner jacket.

A cummerbund provides an alternative and is worn around the waist with the pleats facing upwards.

Neither is always essential with modern Black Tie, but both can add an extra level of formality to the finished outfit.

What Shoes Should You Wear?

Your shoes should be black, smart and polished.

Patent leather shoes are a classic choice for Black Tie and work particularly well for very formal occasions. Highly polished black leather Oxford shoes are another excellent option and can be more versatile if you would like footwear that can be worn for other formal events.

Avoid brown shoes, casual loafers and heavily detailed footwear. With Black Tie, simplicity is usually best.

Pair your shoes with black dress socks long enough to ensure that no bare leg is visible when sitting down.

Black Tie Accessories

Accessories should complement your outfit rather than dominate it.

Good options include:

  • A white pocket square
  • Simple cufflinks
  • Dress studs, if appropriate for your shirt
  • A classic dress watch
  • Black braces where required

A white pocket square provides a particularly elegant finishing touch. Keep the fold simple and avoid trying to match it exactly to another accessory.

Can You Wear a Normal Black Suit to a Black Tie Event?

A black business suit and a Black Tie dinner suit are not quite the same thing.

A dinner jacket has distinctive formal details, most notably its contrasting lapels, and is designed specifically for evening wear. Paired with the correct trousers, shirt and bow tie, it creates a noticeably different appearance from an everyday suit.

If an invitation specifically requests Black Tie, a proper dinner suit is therefore the best choice.

Can You Wear Midnight Blue for Black Tie?

Yes. Midnight blue has a long history in evening wear and is an excellent alternative to black.

Under artificial evening lighting, a dark midnight blue dinner suit can appear exceptionally rich and elegant. The rest of the outfit can remain traditional: white shirt, black bow tie and black shoes.

Can You Wear a Coloured Bow Tie?

Traditionally, Black Tie means exactly that: a black bow tie.

There are occasions where the dress code is interpreted more creatively, and hosts may actively encourage guests to introduce colour or personality. However, unless the invitation suggests this, sticking with a classic black bow tie ensures your outfit remains appropriate.

What Is the Difference Between Black Tie and White Tie?

Despite their similar names, Black Tie and White Tie are different levels of formal dress.

Black Tie is centred around the dinner jacket and black bow tie. White Tie is considerably more formal and traditionally requires a black evening tailcoat, white waistcoat and white bow tie.

If your invitation says Black Tie, you do not need to dress for White Tie.

Black Tie for Weddings

Black Tie can be an excellent choice for an evening wedding or a wedding where the couple wants guests to embrace a particularly elegant dress code.

For grooms, a dinner suit can also provide a stylish alternative to traditional morning wear or a lounge suit.

If Black Tie is specified on a wedding invitation, guests should follow the dress code rather than trying to outdo it. A well-fitting dinner suit with classic accessories will always look appropriate.

Getting the Fit Right

Even the finest dinner suit will not look its best if the fit is wrong.

Pay particular attention to:

  • Shoulders: The jacket should sit naturally without extending beyond your shoulders.
  • Chest: It should button comfortably without pulling.
  • Sleeves: A small amount of white shirt cuff should remain visible.
  • Jacket length: The jacket should create balanced proportions with your trousers.
  • Trousers: They should sit neatly at the waist and fall cleanly over your shoes.

If you are buying Black Tie for the first time, getting these fundamentals right is more important than chasing the latest fashion.

New or Pre-Loved Black Tie

A quality dinner suit is a useful addition to any formal wardrobe and, with the right care, can be worn for many years.

Buying new gives you a wide choice of sizes and styles, while pre-loved Black Tie can be an excellent way to find high-quality formalwear at a more accessible price.

Whichever route you choose, concentrate on condition, quality and, above all, fit.

Black Tie at Richard Paul Menswear

At Richard Paul Menswear, we have over 30 years of experience helping gentlemen dress for weddings, formal occasions and special events.

Our selection of new and pre-loved formalwear makes it possible to put together a Black Tie outfit to suit different requirements and budgets, from the dinner suit itself through to the finishing touches.

If you're unsure about sizing, fit or what you need for a particular event, our team is always happy to offer advice.

You can browse our Black Tie and formalwear online, or visit us in Stratford-upon-Avon for personal assistance.

Black Tie FAQs

Does Black Tie mean I have to wear black?

Not necessarily. While black is the traditional choice, midnight blue is also an established option for dinner suits. Your bow tie and shoes should normally remain black.

Do I need to wear a bow tie?

For a traditional Black Tie dress code, yes. A black bow tie is one of the defining elements of the outfit.

Should I wear a belt with a dinner suit?

Traditionally, no. Dinner trousers are normally worn without a belt, with side adjusters or braces used where necessary.

Can I wear brown shoes with Black Tie?

Black shoes are the appropriate choice. Patent leather or highly polished black leather shoes work particularly well.

Do I need a waistcoat?

Not necessarily. A low-cut evening waistcoat or cummerbund can complete a traditional Black Tie outfit, but many modern dinner suits are worn successfully without either.

Can I wear a normal white shirt?

A smart, well-fitting white formal shirt can work well. For a more traditional appearance, choose a dedicated dress shirt with details such as a pleated or textured front and double cuffs.

When should Black Tie be worn?

Black Tie is primarily an evening dress code and is commonly requested for formal dinners, balls, awards ceremonies, evening weddings and other special occasions.

A Timeless Dress Code

Black Tie has endured because it keeps things simple. A well-fitting dinner suit, crisp white shirt, black bow tie and polished shoes provide an elegant combination that works just as well today as it has for generations.

Focus on fit, quality and the correct details, and you will have an outfit that can serve you for formal occasions for many years to come.

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